Kyoto or Kanazawa? The Autumn Foliage Face-Off

Japan in autumn is theatre: Kyoto delivers the showstoppers—crimson maples framing temple eaves—while Kanazawa offers a quieter edit of gold-leaf lanes and garden calm. Peak colour typically hits mid–late November, with evening illuminations adding drama (and footfall). Trains make both easy: Tokyo–Kyoto in ~2–2.5 hours; Tokyo–Kanazawa in ~2.5–3. This guide weighs crowd levels, ambience, food, and stays so you can decide which city is truly worth the flight this year.

This guide reflects my independent research. Please verify illumination dates, entry requirements, transport schedules and local rules with official sources, and ensure you have the correct visas, health requirements, insurance and documentation before travelling.

Why it’s worth the flight

Kyoto: Kiyomizu-dera, Tofuku-ji, the Philosopher’s Path—sublime, but expect footfall and night illuminations that draw crowds.
Kanazawa: Kenrokuen, Nagamachi samurai streets and Higashi Chaya teahouse lanes—refined, slower, less crowded.

When to go: Peak colour typically lands mid–late November (with some late pockets into early December depending on elevation and weather).

48 hours in Kyoto (the classic, planned smart)

Day 1 – Kiyomizu-dera → Ninenzaka/Sannenzaka → Gion at dusk.
Day 2 – Tofuku-ji (at opening) → Philosopher’s Path → tea in Higashiyama → river sunset.

Where to stay — Kyoto

Budget: Four Points Flex by Sheraton Kyoto Oike – Located in the heart of the city, Four Points Flex by Sheraton Kyoto Oike offers a effortless stay in a calm and quiet space for relaxation.
Mid-Range: Hilton Garden Inn Kyoto Shijo Karasuma – Kyoto Tower is a 20-minute walk away and Sanjusangendo Temple is three kilometers from the hotel. The boulevard Karasuma Dori is on our doorstep and offers many dining options.
Luxury: Park Hyatt Kyoto – Ideally located next to Kodai-ji Temple surrounded by UNESCO World Heritage sites the hotel is in walking distance from Kiyomizu-dera temple and boasts views of Kyoto City and the Yasaka Pagoda.

48 hours in Kanazawa (the connoisseur’s choice)

Day 1 – Kenrokuen → Kanazawa Castle → Higashi Chaya gold-leaf ateliers (stay for evening glow).
Day 2 – Nagamachi samurai district → Omicho Market donburi lunch → 21st-century museum or crafts.

Where to stay — Kanazawa

Budget: Four Points Flex by Sheraton Kanazawa – Kanazawa hotel is just a 3-minute walk from the bus stop and a 15-minute walk from Kanazawa Station, providing easy access to the popular tourist spots including Kanazawa Castle and Kenrokuen Garden.
Mid-Range: Hyatt Centric Kanazawa – Located right next to the gateway of the city, JR Kanazawa station where Hokuriku shinkansen stops. It exists to encourage savvy travellers to go out for endless exploration in the historical city.
Luxury: Hotel Nikko Kanazawa – Hotel nikko kanazawa is a luxurious hotel with 30 floors. Guest rooms are located above the 17th floor. Enjoy the beautiful view of the traditional city of Kanazawa.

Crowd-savvy moves (copy/paste)

Start early, finish late. Temples and gardens are calmest at opening and after 16:00.
Book illumination slots. Timed evening entries sell out.
Choose your base by pace. Higashiyama for Kyoto temple walks; near Kanazawa Station for seamless transit.
Trains: Tokyo ↔ Kyoto in ~2–2.5 hrs (Tokaido Shinkansen). Tokyo ↔ Kanazawa in ~2.5–3 hrs (Hokuriku Shinkansen).
Cash + IC card. Small shops and market stalls still prefer cash; IC cards speed up transit.

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